Version 1.0, completed 03/31/08 by Kelli Anderson

Using AMNH #32884 as an example image that needs to be digitized:

First, search Disktracker to ensure that we don't already have the image(s) scanned.

1.) SEARCH DISKTRACKER After launching Disktracker, hit (Command + F) or go to Search > Find to launch search input field.

2.) Assess Results Disktracker will indicate "no results" if that image number does not appear on any of the dicks.
If results do appear, click on one or all to see on which disk they fall.  A prefix of ai=archival image, sf=service file, and rb=rare book.  (Note that "sc" indicates only special collections on the disks, and will not be helpful n locating the disk in the drawers.)  For more information on the contents of the drawers, refer to "Contents of the Special Collections filing Cabinets."



3.) Retrieve and Verify/Correct Image If the image wasn't found, then it will need to be scanned.  If the image was found and the scan is in compliance with the standards as specified in this document, proceed to correct it (step 3.)

1.) Clean and Prepare Clean the scanner bed at lest once a week with Windex wipes.  Ensure glass is completely dry before setting a negative on the bed.  Only use the horsehair brush to remove dust from the negatives by gently sweeping it across the front and back of the negative.  Always turn on the scanner before launching the Epson Scan software.

Negatives should always be scanned emulsion-side down (facing glass.)  To determine which side is the emulsion-side, hold the negative perpendicular to a light source and locate the side that appears to be more matte.  This is the emulsion side.  Eradicate dust on both sides of the negative and the scanner glass with the horsehair brush before placing the negative on the scanner bed.  Plastic film negatives should be placed directly on the scanner glass.  If curling occurs, use the pane of anti-newton ring glass to flatten it.  Glass plate negatives should always be placed atop the anti-newton ring glass and not directly on the scanner bed glass, which scratches easily.





3.) Make Selection and Correct Exposure Make a selection just within the bounds of the image to be scanned (excluding the negative edge.)

Hit "Auto Exposure" button at bottom left of panel.  This will bring the image into the correct tonal ballpark — although the image is typically a bit over-saturated and has a bit too much contrast.  Small tweaks can be made using the "Image Adjustment" sliders.


The larger the physical negative, the more information that negative can hold.  Subsequently, larger physical negatives should be scanned at larger file sizes (MB.) The idea is to capture all of the information held on a negative, but not more (doing so would waste space on the server.)

Recommended file size (based on Nara's guidelines -- they list guidelines for color only.):

1. Try Auto-levels (command + L and then choose Auto" and assess the results, fine-tuning  accordingly.
2.) Correct for anomalies (light leaks, very uneven lighting) using adjustment layers and then flatten those layers.
3.) If image has too much contrast, adjust accordingly, using the "Brightness/Contrast" sliders.
4.) Determine what area of the tonal range needs more definition.  Generally, it will be the lightest lights and the darkest darks, which can be corrected using the "Shadow/Highlight" tool (use very conservatively — bring out as much information as possible without excessive flattening.)  If the mid-tonal-rang needs more distribution, adjust the curves (command + M.0 The tonal range of most images are improved with a slight s-curve.

If Color:
5. Correct color by launching "Color Balance" (command + B.) I you are working from color slide film (positive film) check your colors against the original on the light table.  Often positive film will turn red with age, so be wary of this variation.  Images captured from scanners are usually over-saturated.  Compensate y launching the "He/Saturation"slider (command + U.)

3.) Sharpen
Zoom in to view the image 1:1 and launch "Unsharp Mask" window (useful to assign a custom key command to this one.) For most images at this resolution, a radius of 1.3 pixels is appropriate.  Adjust slider until you see a slight (not dramatic) sharpening (it is helpful to be looking at an area that has the finest detail and highest contrast, as these areas tend to "over"- sharpen first.)  Be conservative in sharpening, it is irreversible.

4.) Spot-tone
The most efficient tool for quickly eliminating small spots (due to dust, scratches, conservation issues, or in-camera debris) is the Spot-Healing tool, set t about 30 px.  The Spot Haling tool works well except for the occasional problem near the edges.  If the Spot Healing Brush is not working for a particular area, switch over to the clone stamp, which offers a higher degree of cloning control.

What to correct and what not to correct…

I generally adjust my zoom to 50% and adjust all distracting. highly visible defects.  All dust and scratches are repaired with two exceptions:
a.) plentiful dust/dirt around edges of image frame.  If they do not interfere with the contet/focus of the image and are too plentiful/dense to efficiently eradicate, they are best left alone.
b.) large cracks that are difficult to correct without overwriting some portion of the original image.  Small cracks and cracks that do not overlap important content are always corrected, as this can be easily done without risk of overwriting important details.*

5.) Convert Convert 16-bit/channel to 8-bit/channel.

* How to handle Newton Rings in scans:
Newton rings occassionally appears on scans (generally on the newer film negatives in areas of little detail — where the negatives are very thin.)  When this occurs, the negative may need to be rescanned, depending on the severity of the rings and whether they overlap detailed areas.

• If the film is flat enough to be rescanned without glass compressing it downward, rescan in this manner.  This should alleviate most of the Newton rings.
• If the moire patterns are minimal enough and confined to areas of less detail, they may be cloned out.
• Difficult moire patterns or patterns on important negatives should be outsourced for drum scanning.

6.)  Save
Ensure your .tif file is flattened before saving (has no layers.) Ensure "Embed Color Profile: Adobe RGB (1998)" is selected on the save menu. On the "Tiff Options" window, select "None" under Image Compression, "interleaved" under Pixel Order and "IBM PC" under Byte Order.

Calibrating Monitor with Eye-One software/hardware

NARA recommends calibrating the monitor once a month.

For the Eizo monitor, use the Eizo Colornavigator software in conjunction with the Eye-One hardware for calibration.
For all other monitored, use the Eye-One software.

1.) Choose 95K from pull-down menu.

2.) Choose 6500K in temperature slider.

3.) Gamma curve: 2.2.

4.) Initialize Eye-One by placing it down against the desk (or any other opaque surface) as instructed.

5.)  ADD FILENAME TO METADATA  This step adds the given filename of the image to the metadata.  This way, if a future user changes the image name, the image number can be retrieved by viewing the image metadata.


When finished, Bridge does not require a save, simply quit out of the application.

4.)  UPLOAD TO DATABASE  Archival Images and Service images must be uploaded together (on the same day.)  The database uploads all images in the middle of the night.  When it runs, there must be a matching Archival and Service image in the queue for the image upload to be successful.